In Love with Condesa

This is official: Condesa is my favorite neighborhood of CDMX.
Now I understand why people love Mexico City!
We took a walk around Park Mexico, nearby streets and piazzas, and along Avenida Amsterdam. Avenida Amsterdam is actually a rather narrow boulevard built on top of a racetrack. Thus, it is oval in shape, and you can go in circles (or rather, in ovals) as long as you want.
Like the rest of Mexico City, Avenida Amsterdam is an architectural mishmash, but here, most buildings that line up this cosy boulevard are actually remarkable. There are Art Deco, Colonial, Modernist, and those not belonging to any particular style, but still trying to be architectural or just charming. Besides, there is a couple really interesting shops and cute local restaurants. All that is enhanced by the leafy central path, and all of that is on a human scale: compact and cozy.
Granted, this is still CDMX; meaning the buildings are dilapidated, electric wires hung in thick bunches obstructing the tops of the facades, the roads are broken, and construction sites are omnipresent. Still, it is charming to a fault! If one day all of this gets truly gentrified, it will put many beautiful cities to shame.
In the afternoon, we went to the weekly Sunday art market at Jardin del Artes. The whole little park teemed with artists who lined up the alleys with their paintings and sculptures. No high art was to be found here, but great fun it still was.
Then we walked on our tired legs back to the colonial center through another architectural mishmash – some quite interesting!
Had dinner at the lovely courtyard of hotel Downtown, painstakingly restored and gorgeous! Beside the restaurant and the hotel, the inner perimeter of the courtyard hosts tiny artisan boutiques on two floors, with the nicest and most upscale local crafts I’d seen in the city. After dinner, hobbled to Palacio de Bellas Artes for a Mexican dance performance. The dance was entertaining, but it was the palacio itself with its curtain of Tiffany glass and its opulent interior that totally blew my mind!


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